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The Tales of Local Brewing in Uganda

Uganda is known for having a huge number of alcohol consumers who ingest the various types of alcohol ranging from bottled beers and wines to locally manufactured brews like ajon or malwa, and mwenge-bigere or tonto, which is mainly ‘brewed’ in the central region.

For all the flack that this beer receives from the elite circles because of the way it is brewed, it is surprising how popular mwenge-bigere remains. And you will be shocked to know that nothing has changed about the ‘breweries’; as the beer’s name suggests, the brewing process involves feet. Mwenge is Luganda for alcohol, bigere is feet.

The origins of mwenge bigere are deeply rooted in Ugandan culture, particularly among the Baganda people of central Uganda. It’s difficult to pinpoint an exact location or date of discovery, as traditional brewing practices have been passed down through generations and have likely evolved over time. However, it’s also important to note that the production and consumption of traditional brews like mwenge bigere are deeply ingrained in the Baganda culture for centuries, and its production and consumption plays a significant role in social and ceremonial events.

In the central region, where mwenge bigere is traditionally made, the bananas used for pounding are typically sourced locally from the plantations within the community. The specific variety of banana commonly used is the East African Highland banana, locally also known as kayinja. These bananas are widely cultivated in Uganda and are a staple food for the Baganda tribe in the country.

As Churchill Safaris we have taken keen interest in having our clients have a hands on experience of this activity while they visit homesteads in the local communities. And during these visits they are taken through the background of the local brewing, the traditional brewing process, values and culture of the people in the local community. While on this activity clients get to learn how bananas are usually harvested from local banana plantations or farms, where they are grown in abundance. After harvesting, they are transported by bicycle or motorcycle to the place where mwenge bigere is prepared, whether it’s in a household, a community setting, or a commercial production facility.

The bananas are then plucked and placed on a wooden structure above a fireplace locally termed “ekibanyi”, covered with polythene and dry banana leaves to trap the heat. Smoke is then administered for about five days to quicken the ripening process and add aroma to the final product.

In order to reduce overheating, firewood is mixed with banana stems. Alternatively, the bananas can also be buried underground to hasten ripening. After six days, the raw material is now yellow in colour indicating ripeness and the ripe bananas are peeled and transferred into a wooden trough carved out of a tree stem, ready to be squashed by stomping on them using bare feet.

In some modern settings or commercial production facilities, mechanical devices such as motorized mashers or blenders may be used to speed up the process and reduce the manual effort required.

 

 However, we ensure our clients get an authentic experience in traditional or smaller-scale settings, where the traditional wooden trough remain the primary tool for stomping the bananas. Traditionally, bananas for making mwenge bigere are mashed using a large wooden trough “eryaato” using bare feet. According to the Taboos and traditions both sexes are free to savor its rich taste even back in the days, but it was however, abominable for women to participate in certain phases of tonto making. Women can grow and ripen the bananas, but they don’t stomp the bananas. This process is usually done by men traditionally and requires physical strength and endurance, as it can be quite labor-intensive usually taking about 40 minutes and below is a series of steps taken during the production of this local beverage;

  • Aligning Ingredients; mwenge bigere is usually made from fermented bananas, particularly the East African highland bananas, which are abundant in Uganda. Sometimes, millet or sorghum may also be added to the mixture.
  • Preparation; whoever is to stomp the bananas in the trough has to wash their feet thoroughly at least 10 minutes before the activity. The bananas are first squashed or stomped into a pulp using bare feet. Once the stomping has produced the desired results, spear grass is introduced to the trough to help blend the banana paste further into thinner juice, and afterwards about seven 20-litre jerrycans of water are added to dilute the concentrated banana juice (omubisi).
  • Fermentation; a big saucepan is placed in a slanting position next to the trough, fresh banana leaves are used as funnels to guide the juice from the trough into the saucepan, with the spear grass acting as a sieve. The mixture is left to ferment for a period of time, typically several days to a week. During fermentation, natural yeast present on the banana skins or introduced from the environment helps to convert the sugars in the bananas into alcohol.
  • Straining; at this stage after fermentation, clients are shown how the liquid is strained to remove any solid particles, resulting in a clear or slightly cloudy liquid.
  • Packaging; the brewed mwenge bigere is then often transferred into containers such as jerry cans or bottles for storage and transportation to local bars or markets for consumption. A jerrycan of tonto usually costs between Shs 45,000 to Shs 50,000, while a glass goes for Shs 1,000 and through the sales made the local brewers are able to sustain their families.
  • Serving; after the brew is packaged the clients get an opportunity of tasting their make, mwenge bigere is traditionally served in small cups or gourds and enjoyed at social gatherings, ceremonies, or as a refreshment in local bars and pubs.

The time it takes to make mwenge bigere can vary depending on factors such as the specific recipe, environmental conditions for fermentation, and personal preferences for flavor. Overall, from preparation to consumption, the entire process of making mwenge bigere usually takes around a week or so.

Through engaging in these activities our clients get an opportunity of learning and appreciating the customs and tradition of the people in the local communities of Uganda and in the process this promotes and preserves the culture and way of life of the locals.

 

 

 

 

 

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